Columnist Ed (Columnist Ed!) checks in from an off-season jaunt to New York with a beer review:
I'm sitting at B. Smith's in Sag Harbor, staring at Shelter Island in the distance through a pale drizzle, and chatting aimlessly about stiff necks, tv, and the girl that got away. I'm doing all but making sweet love to the fried oysters dipped in wasabi-coconut sauce (the genius of the so-called black Martha Stewart), and I'm sipping my first Brooklyn Brown Ale (Brooklyn, New York, 5.6% ABV). The color is true Rembrandt brown, but clear. The head is understated. It hits the palate tenderly at first, but with a brisk after. Somewhere abounds the hint of malt so I search for the footprints of chocolate, but they're only there for the dreamer. The beer is not sweet but is made with the strength and purpose of a classic US craft beer. It's punchy enough for warm days, but best under light clouds. One might expect a dull and somber mood from a beer like this, but instead it has the rhythm of classic jazz. Brooklyn Brown Ale -- it's may not be Queens Boulevard, but it's still worth a go. B+.